Di Fuel Figures

Refilled after my first full tank of diesel with the 200Di yesterday.  Results not as amazing as I’d expected, but there have been a few issues which might explain that – the speedo stopped working for 20-odd miles and there’s been a lot of engine tweaking and running on the drive.  Plus of course the continuing “smoke adjuster” saga.

Here’s the graph.  The news is good really, getting just under 25MPG and I’d expect much much better on a long run where the overdrive would start to make a big difference.  Money-wise it’s now costing £25 per 100miles as opposed to an average of £39 per 100miles (up to £45 round town!). 

The second to last data point on the graph is the last time Dr J and I went to Sodbury.  The petrol engine was best on a long run, but even then it failed to beat the 200Di round town.  Here are some examples…

Petrol Round Town: 13MPG, £45/100miles, Range 100miles
Petrol to Sodbury:  19MPG, £33/100miles, Range 160miles
Diesel Round Town:  25MPG, £25/100miles, Range 210miles

And what we’re aiming for is something like…

Diesel ideal:  34MPG, £18/100miles, Range 290miles

So now I need an excuse to head off on a long run!

In Other News

I’m having all sorts of issues with the electrics at the moment.  The mornings are getting colder now and my glowplugs aren’t wired up yet.  Also, I think the batteries from the 24v system are a bit small to turn over the diesel engine.  The other morning I was forced to resort to jump starting off Marvin the Mondeo.

So, I think there will be some more spending before Winter sets in.  A new battery and some wiring for the glowplugs is going to set me back a few quid!

Engine Start

Another visit from Dr Johnson this weekend and we got the new engine started!  Not a very complex process really, just took a bit of faffing about with the electrics.
Adding some fuel

A collection of batteries

Initially we tried starting the engine with jump leads and batteries on the floor.  The starter really struggled with one battery so we added another in parallel:  no better!  In the end, Dr J bolted a battery into the proper place and used the existing battery connections.  Amazing how much of a difference the jump leads were making!

Bit of smoke from the DIY exhaust.  Tightening the bolts later fixed the leak

The main positive feed for the 24v system was on the starter solenoid which is no longer needed, so I made a plastic block to mount things on instead.  This saves a lot of wiring and keeps thing neat.

Most people use the series alternator mounting to mount the alternator using the same belt as the crank and water pump.  My old engine had a massive military generator mounting instead, so I had to make my own alternator bracket.

The alternator mount.

There are a few jobs left to do – leaky fuel pipes being one – but things are looking good for getting The Duke back on the road soon!

Fairey Enough

Finally found the cash to buy an overdrive!  Got it on eBay for £333.33 – about the going rate.  You’ll be interested to know that The Duke himself was £555.55, so this purchase was far from cheap; but it actually comes out somewhere around 5% of the total cost of the restoration, so maybe not so bad.  The 5th gear which the overdrive gives me should also give a pretty good improvement to The Duke’s woeful fuel economy and might well pay for itself at some point.  So if you ignore the fact that I could, instead, have spent the money on a five-year-old Mondeo with one careful previous owner, it’s money well spent.
An overdrive
And lets be honest, you don’t buy a Land Rover because you want to be sensible!
Bloke who sold me the overdrive was a nice guy and it’s in great shape.  He’d recently refurbished it and showed me the receipts for all the parts.  There’s no linkage or lever, but that’ll make a nice workshop project.  My plan is to reassemble the replacement gearbox and bolt the overdrive into that, then buy a second hand 200TDi engine and drop the whole lot into The Duke in one go this Summer.

Teeth look in great condition – I am just amazed that all of the engine’s power is transferred through those tiny little things!

I’ve said before that I’m not keen on the 200TDi conversion, but I’m also not keen on paying 40p for every mile I travel, when I could be paying a quarter as much.  I also think that making all the pulleys and adapters would be a fun workshop job which adds to the interest.

More great dental work.  Some slight impressions on these is you look closely, but far from a problem!

Yet more nice teeth!

 Everyone posts this picture.  Must be a tradition!

So there you have it: a plan and hopefully more stuff to come on the blog.  Watch this space!

This is getting expensive!

No posts about The Duke and me for some time now. The reason for this is a good one: not very much needs to be done! Well, there are loads of “big jobs” outstanding; the engine needs a rebuild, the gearbox needs one too, I need an overdrive and to do something to deal with my arch enemy…

The Bristol trip used two tanks of fuel, more or less, and I’ve used another three tanks pottering about the place, coming to work and driving round Berkshire. I now have data from five fillups to use to see what’s going on with economy. The results are not good…

Cost per hundred miles is soaring, but much of that is down to the government and their nasty taxes. Petrol has gone up 10p a litre in the space of five tankloads, which makes the yellow trace on the graph rise faster than perhaps it should.

The two “pure” economy measures show that I can’t blame it all on Gordon Brown (or whoever is prime minister this week). The biggest shock was when I got back from my fuel stop this lunchtime. 74 miles clocked up with trips to work (10 miles or so per day) and one trip to Newbury (25 miles ish) and the MPG has dropped right back down to where I started!

Starting to be tempted by the idea of a 200TDi conversion…

15 MPG

Seems that fixing the clutch has done me some good. Just did about 66 miles on £22.46 worth of ASDA Smart Price petrol. That equates to 15 MPG. Quite an improvement on the 10MPG I previously reported, though the soaring price of gas means this improvement only saves me £4 per 100 miles.

A petrol pump, yesterday.

Seems I might have been wrong about the 10 MPG too. Looks like an error in my spreadsheet caused me to calculate it wrongly (bloody software engineers…). I think the real value should have been more like 12MPG, which is still a pretty low baseline!

Off on an exciting Stag-Weekend adventure tomorrow and taking The Duke along with me. Will be a good opportunity to gather more data, as well as calculating my own Vodka-MPG. Expect photos and results in a few days!

Fun with the Clutch: Chapter One

It was raining a little today, so I slobbed on the sofa for a couple of hours before I decided I really should still attempt to get The Duke’s clutch fixed. It’s better to regret something you have done, after all.

So, this post is a guide to how I dropped the gearbox, clutch, flywheel and flywheel housing off, ready to to fix the clutch and a suspect crankshaft oil seal. Note that because The Duke is a newer model he has a removable gearbox crossmember, so I didn’t need to take the seat box off.

First job: Get the floor up. Transmission tunnel, gear knobs, floors, and seat bottoms (didn’t want to get them mucky) all got stripped out.

Here’s the gear selector at the bottom of the gear stick. I’m sure there’s supposed to be a little ball on the bottom to stop it flapping around. Other than that, eveything looks fine.

Removing the nuts which hold the bell housing onto the flywheel housing. There are quite a few of them, but they all came off nicely in the end.

Before the gearbox can be removed you also need to disconnect the clutch slave cylinder, the handbrake linkage, the front and rear driveshafts and the speedo cable. None of these is easy to remove! I found that the only way to get the rear propshaft off was to unbolt the back first so I could change the angle and get access to the nuts at the gearbox end. The handbrake linkage is made of pure evil.

Since I don’t have an angine hoist I slung a rope or two under the gearbox, then used a mixture of jacking, hammering, pulling on ropes, levering and swearing to drop the gearbox and crossmember down in one go. I would not recommend that anyone try it this way. There’s no chance I’m getting it back on without a hoist of some kind!

Clutch pressure plate. Lots of dust in there and a nasty oily clag at the bottom which shows that the chaps on the forums were right – the crankshaft oil seal is leaking.

Old and new clutches. The pressure plate side of the clutch is almost totally bald – probably explains my shocking MPG figures! New part is “AP Driveline” who are apparently very good.

The last little bit of friction material clings to the old clutch plate.

Next I had to get the flywheel off. The Haynes manual says “undo the bolts and pull off the flywheel”. IIt doesn’t mention that the bolts are tightened hard into something that freely rotates, or that the friction fitting of the flywheel is very hard to overcome! Note the spanner in the picture, which I used to stop the engine turning over while I unscrewed the bolts. I then put the old pressure plate back on and used it to help lever off the flywheel.

Flywheel off. Next thing to come off was the flywheel housing. Very simple really: six bolts inside the housing and two above. You also need to disconnect the starter motor before the plate will come away.

Flywheel housing detached. Full of a nasty sludge of clutch dust and leaked engine oil.

Just getting all that to bits took five hours of constant work. I have cut my hands to ribbons, got rust and oil in my eyes and not a single new part has been attached yet! Watch this space for chapter two…

MPG Shopping List

OK, I think I may have found the cause of the terrible fuel economy I was getting out of The Duke (9.7 MPG): The clutch is knackered. Went to pick up a roof and some windows from a bloke off the EMLRA forums and the extra weight and some hills made it quite obvious that much of the engine’s power is being wasted burning the clutch!

So, I have spent another £150 on new parts for the clutch. There will, no doubt, be more on the blog about the roof, windows and clutch fitting later on!

I started a thread about MPG on the LRnet forums and got some advice which may well be worth listening to! Most people with 2.286 petrol engines like mine claimed to get around 17 MPG. Still not amazing but it’d halve my petrol bill, which suits me!

  • Overdrive – around 30% improvement when engaged on motorways etc. Available on eBay for around £300 and often of poor quality.
  • Performance/unleaded head with a higher compression ratio – could give 10 – 30% improvement for £350 or so
  • A better carb – I am starting to distrust the crappy carb I installed – roughly £100
  • An electric fan, rather than the 8 blade military one. Kenlowe fans claim an 8% increase in performance for £100
  • A higher temperature thermostat – the engine runs better when hot. Not expensive but needs investigation.
  • Somebody also claimed that the military 109 had lower than standard gearing in the transfer case. Not sure if this is true…?