Oil FIlter Plugs

The 200TDi engine has an oil cooler which sits next to the radiator and is connected to the oil filter housing by a couple of flexible pipes.  The oil cooler is needed because the turbo allows a large amount of heat from the exhaust manifold to be transferred into the oil which needs to be lost somehow (the heat, I mean, not the oil!).  Since I’m fitting the TDi engine in non-turbo form I won’t need the oil cooler (or even a fan for that matter!) so the thermostat in the oil filter housing needs to be removed and the pipe connections blanked off.

Taking the thermostat out of the housing – so the oil will pass in the same direction regardless of temperature.
Blanking off the pipe fittings is not so easy.  The holes on my newer engine are threaded M20x1.5 and finding an off-the-shelf plug isn’t easy.  Also, as well as the thread, the pipe connections protrude past the threads into a smaller hole with a rubber O-ring.  I imagine this is quite important to make a proper seal.
Turning the plug

While contemplating the problem I noticed a small offcut of 1″ brass round bar on the shelf… so I decided to have a go a making a plug on the lathe.  This involved some serious setting up:  Most important job was to replace the shear pin that I managed to break by driving the carriage into the headstock (because I’m an idiot!).  It took a good hour to get the lead screw gears changed to the right ratios, after which I took ages setting up the tools and so on…

The two plugs – different sizes because of how I parted them off

 …anyway, it took a few hours but I did it in the end!  Have ordered some hexagonal brass bar in case I need to do this sort of thing again.  There wasn’t much of anything to grip in the mill so I couldn’t do much about the spanner-unfriendliness issues.  In the end I just gripped the plugs in the vice and screwed them in. It’s not like they need to come out again!

 In place in the filter housing

Here’s an extreme close-up from the inside of the filter.  Hopefully shows how it engages into the seal.

So, unless it all leaks, that’s one more task complete on the New Engine Project.  Good news.  Bad news is that I tried turning the engine over with the 24v starter (using The Duke’s batteries and my new jump leads) this weekend.  The starter just doesn’t seem to be up to the job.  It struggled to turn the engine over, probably due to the higher compression ratio of the diesel.  Another reason to move away from the 24v dream to 12v mediocrity…

Busy Bank Holiday

Busy day of Dukin’ today.  Fitted the flywheel housing and new oil seal to the 200TDi the went outside to enjoy the sun and paint the rear crossmember – a job I’ve been putting off for over a year!
 Here’s another oil seal – banged in to the flywheel housing as per usual with a block of wood.

Here it is from the other side.  The protector/guide fitted the right way round with the “fat” end towards the engine.  I lubricated it with some new engine oil before fitting and used a paper gasket this time, rather than bathroom sealant.

I used two long bolts to support and guide the housing into place.  The bolts which attach it to the engine are not long enough to make contact with the block before the oil seal guide starts to push through, so I needed to support the weight and keep it straight while pushing the first few millimetres by hand.

Tightening the flywheel bolts

Starter motor fitted and exhaust manifold in place.  Plenty of room for everything to coexist when no turbo is fitted.

Looking better in green than it did when it was a black and rusty lump.  However, the difference between brand new Deep Bronze Green and 30-year-old Deep Bronze Green is quite apparent!
Also, just for the record I fixed the brakes last week.  Turns out I’d cross threaded the pipe into the cylinder ages ago and it had finally worked itself loose.  Thank heavens for split circuit brakes!  Anyway, all fixed with a brand new cylinder now so we’re back on the road!

200TDi Flywheel Housing Modification

Just about everyone who puts a 200TDi engine into a Series Land Rover will end up looking at the Glencoyne website at some point.  He’s the guy who first suggested taking the turbo off the 200TDi to create a lower powered “200Di” variant.  That’s exactly the conversion I am doing so I thought I’d include a plug at the top of this post, especially as I didn’t pay him to modify my flywheel housing for me…

Clamped the flywheel housing to the mill.  Widened the existing holes part way to 16mm to allow the Allen caps of the very expensive stainless M10x70 bolts to sit flush with the edge.  Then drilled the half-made 10mm holes already in the casing and tapped M10 to take some extra studs.

Started tapping in the mill to make sure I got the thread straight.  Then finished by hand.  I was quite scared about the whole process as one slip-up would have meant a new engine!  It worked well in the end though.  Here are some before and after shots of the flywheel housing…

So that’s one less job to worry about!  Need to look at the timing belt then build a mounting for the generator next I think…

Where there’s a will there’s a way!

In my last post I explained why you can’t put a 24v Series III starter motor into a 200TDi engine.  In this post I am going to explain how, regardless of the impossibility factor, I did manage to put the 24v starter from a Series III into a 200TDi.

I’m quite pleased with the outcome as it does not stop me swapping back to a standard 12v motor if the need arises in future.  No big changes were made to the new engine, just a small widening in the flywheel housing which makes no difference to the standard starter.

First job was to come up with a way to keep the motor central in it’s hole.  The 24v motor has a slightly smaller diameter than the Discovery 12v version, so it needs something to help keep it centred.  Using first the lathe, then a hand file and sand paper I made a very thin ring from an offcut of aluminium plate.  I cut the ring to give it a tiny bit of expansion and glued it in place over the starter motor mounting flange as shown in the photo below.

Thin aluminium ring round the 24v starter to help keep it central while bolting it up.

This was probably not the best way to get this done.  Wrapping with copper foil or something similar would probably have done the trick.  The ring doesn’t have much in the way of strength as it’s only about 1.5mm wide.  It does keep the starter in place while the bolts are done up, after which time the bolts will hold it in place.

Another problem to deal with was that the holes in the mounting flange are closer together on the 24v starter than on the 12v version.  I solved this problem by making some simple brackets which hold the motor very firmly and have studs to stop it spinning too.

Mounting bracket using 200TDi stud to hold the 24v starter flange.

Making these brackets was made much easier by the discovery of a massive milling attachment in a box of Tom’s assorted tools.  Not only did this cut through the steel plate like a knife through butter, it also left a mirror shine on the metal when it was done.  I like it!

Mounting brackets and spacers.  Tapped an M10 hole through, screwed in a short length of studding and then punched the ends to provide a secure stud to mate with the starter’s mounting holes.  Spacers were milled to ~0.25mm smaller than starter’s mounting flange.

The brackets are made from thick steel so should hold the motor very firmly indeed for years to come.  I test fitted the flywheel housing and starter with new fittings to the engine and it fit perfectly.  There’s a very slim chance the longer motor body would interfere with a standard exhaust downpipe but I intend to make a custom one, so should be OK. 

Enlarged the gap in the flywheel housing using a hand file.  Roughly 5mm of material removed all round.

A small modification to the flywheel housing lets the beefy starter shaft and gear pass through with room to spare.  Obviously there’s bags of room in the Series III bell housing for the older starter motor shaft.

 Mounted to engine.  Starter gear disengaged.

 As above but with the starter gear engaged.

I was worried that the starter engages from the back rather than the front, but this works fine.  The Series III flywheel has no tapering on the teeth and relies on the starter gear’s tapers for a smooth engagement, so there should be no issues with the TDi flywheel’s untapered teeth.

Tested it by hand on the 200TDi and it works like a charm.  Not tried it under power yet, but I see no reason why it wouldn’t work.  Fingers crossed!

So, 24v starter now ticked off the list of engine conversion worries.  Next job is to fabricate a mounting for the massive 24v generator (something the military decided was impossible on the 200TDi engine).  After that I just have to worry about powering the glowplugs; all the other engine electrics will be fed at 12v off a low power voltage dropper already installed in The Duke’s dashboard.



Another Engine Update

Spent another few hours in the garage with the 200TDi last night.  The main aim was to find out whether the 24v starter motor from the Series III would fit into the flywheel housing of the 200TDi.  The answer was, sadly, no. 

Starter motors:  new 12v 200TDi starter on the left and old 24v starter on the right.

The main problem with the starters is that the holes on the new starter’s mounting flange are further apart than those on the old one.  The shape of the flywheel housing itself means that it would be next to impossible to drill and tap holes for new studs.

In addition to this, the starter gears on the two motors engage from different directions.  On the 12v starter the wheel spins out from the motor body to engage the flywheel.  On the 24v starter the gear spins back towards the motor body.  The teeth on the flywheel are shaped on one side to allow the starter gear to engage easily, but flat on the other side.  I’m not 100% sure, but I suspect you’d see the same difference when comparing the 12v and 24v Series III starters, so maybe it’s not a massive problem.  I haven’t got a clue why the military starter engages from the opposite direction.

Finally, I also noticed that the curved cutout for the starter in the 200TDi flywheel housing interferes with the bizarre spring on the end of the 24v motor.  With a bit of crafty filing it might be possible to sort this, but the other problems mean it’s probably not worth bothering.

Oil seal on the crank shaft clearly never leaked before!

Flywheel housing removed.

One of the biggest modifications when fitting the 200TDi (with or without the turbo) onto a series gearbox is to adapt the flywheel housing.  This means removing a couple of pins and one stud then drilling and tapping new stud holes as well as counterboring holes for some allen head bolts.  If I didn’t have a milling machine this would be a scary thing!

First step was to remove the extra stud, which turned out to be reasonably simple.

Removing the extra stud using two bolts and a spanner.  Tighen the bolts against each other and then put the spanner on the inner nut to undo the stud.

Test fitting the flywheel housing on the gearbox.  Fits well.

To be honest, I’m not worried at all about the flywheel housing modifications.  I have the right tools knocking about and the process is pretty well documented on the internet.  Far more worrying is stuff like the custom exhaust I need to make up (can’t afford the manifold swap option as they come in at £100+ these days) and the continuing saga of the 24v/12v electrical system.  More on these issues soon I hope…

New Engine Shakedown

Just a few pics of the new engine.  Thanks to the burgling sons of hookers who took my camera, the photos are all taken on my phone…
Big scary bugger as it arrived on the garage floor.  Took me a while to build up the nerve to start mucking with it.
Alternator and power steering pump removed.  Turbo is in great condition but isn’t likely to make it into The Duke.  The extra power is bad for the gearbox and apparently the economy is better without the turbo.
Taking the “damper” off the front of the crank shaft.  I made up this “special Land Rover tool” from some M6 bolts and a couple of chunks of scrap.  The middle hole is tapped so the bolt can be tightened to pull the wheel off the shaft.
Having a machine shop in the garage really makes life easier!
Manifolds, turbo and suchlike removed.  Looks far less scary now!
Cam belt cover removed.  Looks good as new, but I think it might be worth replacing it (well, Dr J said I should…)
More later hopefully!

Carburettor Change

I got a second hand Weber carburettor off eBay the other day.  I decided I’d give one a go as The Duke’s fuel economy remains resolutely stuck around 14MPG.
Gave it a clean in a bucket of gunk and was thinking of taking is all to bits to see what sort of condition it’s in, perhaps cleaning it all out and buying a new set of gaskets before carefully reassembling and fitting.  Then I decided to forget all that and just bung it on the engine and see what happens. 
For the first time in a very long time The Duke started from cold on the first turn of the key with no choke.  Adjusted the idle speed to something sensible and then leaned it off to something far closer to a purr – though still not totally unlike a spanner in the tumble drier.
Took it for a test drive and was very pleased with the results.  Not exactly a super-car, or even close to our ten-year-old Mondeo, but much better than I’ve been used to!  People say the Weber is actually a downgrade from the stock Zenith, but based on my tests so far, it’s a clear upgrade to a crappy Indian Zenith copy.
Two carbs:  Weber on the left and Indian PseudoZenith on the right.
Two sorts of adapter plate.  The military one from The Duke is fatter.

Installed and running.  The throttle linkage needed shortening and the choke that I just spent ages on needs a longer cable or some kind of clever 90 degree linkage.